Funfal dyes

Picture: Fungal dyes by Anna King

Traditionally, dyestuffs were extracted from roots, leaves, stems, flowers, berries, lichen, bark, wood, etc. More recently, however, people have also begun to experiment with dyes from mushrooms. Mushroom dyes are simple to extract and yield a wide range of bright, fast colours colours - 'a palette possibly unsurpassed by other natural dyestuffs.'

There does not appear to be a tradition of dying with fungi in Scotland, although they were historically employed in scattered locations elsewhere in the world. Coppins and Watling (1995) cite the usage of several species for this purpose. As fungal dyeing is a relative newcomer to Britain (having only developed in the 1990s), experimental dyers are still finding their feet.

The usual rule for natural dyeing may apply as a starter (traditionally, 1 ounce of wool to one quart of fresh blossoms or leaves). However, experience has shown that in the mushroom realm,  the concentration of dye substances in each species is far more the determining factor, so that no rule of thumb can be looked to for best, better or any special results.

 

The following species have been used in Scotland - Click on the links for more information

 

Boletus spp. Bulgaria inquinans Cortinarius cinnamomeus Cortinarius croceus
Cortinarius fervidus Cortinarius malicorius Cortinarius sanguineus Cortinarius semisanguineus
Fomes fomentarius Gymnopolis penetrans Gymnopolis spectabilis Hapalopilus nidulans
Hydnellum spp. Hypholoma fasciculare Inonotus hispidus Lactarius deliciosus
Paxillius atromentosus Paxillius involutus Phaeolus schweinitzii Pholiota incarnata
Ramaria spp. Thelephora palmata Tricholompsis rutilans Boletus appendiculatus

Descriptions from:
[Harding, P., Lyon, T. & Tomblin, G., (1996) How to identify edible mushrooms. Collins, London]
[Courtecuisse, R. (1999) Collins guide to the mushrooms of Britain & Europe. Harper Collins, London.]
 
 
 
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Bulgaria inquinans

Description:
1-3 cm across, small rubber-like, blackish, top-shaped (turbinate) fungus growths found growing in clusters on the bark of oak and other hardwoods, frequently on dead or decaying wood; spores- black.

Dyes:
All tests produce brown black; red/golden brown (no mordant), grey brown (alum), chocolate brown (tin), brown (copper), grey brown (iron).

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Cortinarius cinnamomeus

Description:
Cap 2 to 5 cm broad, with umbo, becoming almost flat with maturity, yellow brown to cinnamon brown, remnants of cortina evident on edge of cap, flesh is pale yellow; gills yellowish, turning brown with spores in maturity; stalk yellow to yellowish-cinnamon, often with fine hairs; spores brown; habitat under conifers, autumn and summer.

Dyes:
Three different colours if dried; orange (no mordant), orange (alum), muddy orange (tin), red brown/ cinnamon (copper), grey/ red brown/ orange (iron).

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Cortinarius croceus

Description:
Cap olivaceous brown, expanded in maturity, with definite umbo; gills orange-yellow (saffron); stalk yellowish; spores rusty brown; habitat - on the ground under conifers.

Dyes:
Pale orange/ yellow (no mordant), orange/ yellow (alum), orange yellow (tin).

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Cortinarius sanguineus

Cap 2-5 cm broad, dark blood red, bell-shaped, 'silky', dry, fibrillose, remains of veil (cortina) on edge of cap in young specimens, gills blood red, close, attached to stalk (adnate); stalk blood red; spores rusty brown; habitat - on ground under conifers during autumm.

Dyes:
Orange, rust-red (no mordant), red/ red-orange (alum), scarlet (tin), deep fox-red/ cinnamon (copper), purple/ tan (iron). Best of the Cortinarius genus.

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Cortinarius semisanguineus
Cap 5-7 cm broad in maturity, slight umbo, tawny to cinnamon yellow, dry, smooth, remains of veil (cortina) evident when young, flesh is yellowish white; gills blood red when young, becoming 'rusty' with age due to spore  formation; gills attached to stalk; stalk yellowish-tawny, fibrillose; spores rusty-brown.

Dyes:
Orange-rust red/ apricot (no mordant), orange red/ red/ apricot (alum), cinnamon (chrome), orange yellow/ salmon pink, red- brown/ tan (copper), grey brown/ tan (iron). Best to separate caps and stalks and use separately.

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Fomes fomentarius

Also called Devil's Hoofnail & Touchwood Fungus.
Bulky, hard bracket fungus (10-30cm deep), or thin and glabrous. Concentric ridging on bracket (has pores, not gills), Brownish-grey surface, flesh dark rufous brown. Common on birch in Scotland.

Dyes:
Beige (no mordant), beige brown/ mustard (alum), yellow brown (chrome), yellow brown/ mustard (tin), yellow brown/ light brown (copper) and dark brown/ light brown (iron).
 

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Gymnopilus penetrans

Cap  up to 6 or 8 cm wide, convex, yellow-orange, hairless surface (dry or viscid) white veil, slightly umbonate, yellowish flesh; gills yellow, becoming rusty-brownish with spores; stalk with no ring even though there is a veil when young; spore print rusty brown; habitat - growing singly or in groups (caespitose) on wood, or on the ground under which is buried or rotting wood.

Dyes:
gold  (no mordant), gold (alum), mustard ( chrome), gold/ yellow (tin), cinnamon (copper), greenish yellow (iron).

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Hydnellum caeruleum

Cap 5cm, leathery, top-shaped, upper surface rugose, tomentose, blueish, fading or spotted with reddish fawn. Under surface covered with slender decurrent spines, bluish, then white and finally purplish brown.

Dyes:
Tan (no mordant), grey blue (alum), grey green (chrome), light blue (tin), brown green (copper) and dark forest green (iron).
 

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Hypholoma fasiculare

Also called Sulphur Tuft.  Cap 4-8 cm, with a low umbo, smooth, bright yellow with a slightly fawn-orange centre; margin incurved, at first with a cortina; gills sulphur, becoming a greenish to olive grey. Flesh yellow, odourless, bitter.

Dyes:
Gold/ yellow (no mordant), yellowish beige/ gold (alum), cinnamon (chrome), ochre yellow/ gold (tin), yellow olive/ yellow brown (copper) and grey green/ greenish brown (iron). 

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Inonotus hispidus

A bracket fungus (with pores). Thick, rufous brown. Pores glancing. Cap fairly thick, up to 8 cm. Semicircular, wider than long. Has erect, bristly hairs (felt-like to touch) starting rust coloured, then darkening. Flesh fibrous, turning leathery.

Dyes:
Yellow (alum), gold brown (copper) and green gold (iron).

 

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Lactarius deliciosus

Cap 6-12 cm across, light orange, turning greenish with either bruising or age, bleeds orange 'milk' (latex) which turns zoned with greenish tones, convex in shape, flesh light orange, brittle; gills bright orange, staining green bruised, decurrent; spores buff; stalk same color as cap; habitat in mixed conifer/hardwood forests. This specimen was found under tan oak.

Dyes:
All test produce beige.

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Paxillius atromentosus

Description:
Cap up to 15 cm wide, light brown with flattened hairs (felty-tormentose), dry, centrally depressed, margin strongly inrolled, flesh whitish to beige-yellow; gills bright yellow to pale brownish yellow, turning brown where bruised, running down stem (decurrent); stalk off-centre, short, fat, covered with thick velvet (velutinous) layer of dark brown-black hairs; spores yellowish-brown; habitat - found in groups on decayed conifer logs and stumps, late summer and early autumm.

Dyes:
Beige brown (no mordant), beige brown (alum), yelow brown (tin), olive, tawny (copper), yellow/ grey green (iron). When aged they range from forest green, lavender, brown green, dark green, dark grey to purple black.

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Paxillius involutus

Description:
Cap 5-10 cm broad, convex at first, flattening out in depression in center, margin of cap inrolled, yellowish brown felty appearance due to matted hairs (fibrillose), yellowish flesh with stains down stalk (decurrent); staining brownish where bruised, often has intersecting gills; stalk short, thick, slightly enlarged at base, central (never off center), hairless, yellowish brown; habitat - found in association with wood, either on it or nearby, especially conifers or mixed hardwood and conifer forests.

Dyes:
Beige (no mordant), beige (alum), orange (tin), tan (copper) and greenish tan (iron).

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Phaeolus schweinitzii

Cap >12cm across, dimidiate, thick and expanded. Rather fleshy. Pale ochre/ yellow (darkening to brighter saffron at edges). Pores large, labyrinthine, olivacoues yellow. Common at base of living conifer trunks.

Dyes:
Beige yellow (no mordant), yellow (alum), bright yellow (tin), brown (copper) and moss green (iron).

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Ramaria pallida

Small, gelid fungus with elongate, vertically held branches. Generally pale yellow, with lilac, or purple tingeing towards the tips, although easily confused with older specimens of related species.

Dyes:
Provides blue dye.

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Thelephora palmata

3-6 cm tall fungus growing erect, almost like coral, with many erect flattened branches, purplish-greyish-brown in color, with a leathery context; spores fawn; habitat - found on ground under conifers late summer through to autumn.

Dyes:
Tan (no mordant, alum, chrome), olive green (tin), tan (copper), tan (iron). Provides blue dye.

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Tricholompsis rutilans

Description:
Cap up to 15 cm across when mature, rounded (convex) expanding to nearly flat, yellowish colour under a dense covering of dark reddish fibrillose scales, pale yellow flesh; gills yellow, notched to stem (adnexed), close; stalk up to 10 or 15 cm long, same yellowish with red fibrils which cap has and will stain yellow when it's bruised; spore print white; habitat - grows singly on conifer logs and stumps in comiferous forests.

Dyes:
Mustard (no mordant), brown (alum), brown (chrome), mustard (tin), dark brown (copper) and brown black (iron).

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